Camino del Norte
Irún → Santiago de Compostela
846 km along the Basque, Cantabrian and Asturian coast from Irún. Harder than the Francés, emptier, and the best scenery of any route I cover.
New information comes in every day — from pilgrims on the road and people I know along the way — and it goes out the moment it does. The app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built: new features arrive routinely.
Pilgrims on the road and friends along the way send me changes every day, and they go out the same day. The Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built — new features arrive routinely.
Get the appFrom the listings on this site, recalculated as they change. 21 albergues ask for a donation rather than a price: pay what the night was worth to you, not nothing.
The Norte is for the second camino. It is the route for someone who has done the Francés and wants the same length with more scenery and fewer people, and for confident walkers who have done long distances before and know what five weeks of daily hills means. It is the best-looking camino on this site, and I say that as someone who has argued the point.
Who it isn't for: a first-timer who has never walked more than a weekend, and anyone hoping the coast means flat. It is also not the route for someone who wants a bed to be guaranteed at the end of any afternoon they choose to stop. There are plenty of beds; they are just further apart than on the Francés, and in August the municipal ones fill early.
846 km from Irún on the French border to Santiago, along the whole of Spain's north coast and then inland through Galicia. The Basque Country first: San Sebastián on the second day, then cliffs, fishing villages, Bilbao and the estuary. Cantabria next, with Santander and a softer coast of beaches and river mouths. Then Asturias, which is the heart of the walk: the Picos de Europa inland, the sea on your right, Ribadesella, Gijón, Avilés, and cider in every village. The route leaves the coast at Ribadeo and turns inland across Galicia for the last week, through farmland and eucalyptus to Arzúa, where it meets the Francés for the final two days.
At Villaviciosa the Norte offers you the Primitivo, and a good many people take it: inland to Oviedo and over the mountains on the oldest camino of all. The full Norte along the coast is the longer of the two ways to Santiago from Irún; the Primitivo branch is the harder. Both are on this page.
Nobody warns you about this properly, so: the Norte goes up and down all day. A coast is a series of headlands and river mouths, and the path climbs every headland and drops to every river. No single day is as hard as the Pyrenees on the Francés, but there is more climbing over the whole route, and by the second week your legs know about it.
The surface is mixed: cliff path, beach, farm track, and more tarmac than you would like, especially through the built-up stretches around Bilbao, Santander and Gijón. The Basque section in the first week has the steepest days. Galicia at the end is gentler and greener and wetter.
Beds are well spread along the whole route, but the gaps between towns with beds are longer than on the Francés, and this is the camino where looking at tomorrow's table the night before actually pays. The Xunta albergues carry you through Galicia; the Basque Country and Cantabria lean more on municipal albergues that fill in summer and on pensions and hostales that do not. The big cities are expensive for a bed and worth it for a rest day: Bilbao in particular.
Every town on this page lists every bed, and the table on each town's page shows every place with beds within a day's walk of it.
The prices at the top of this page come from the listings on this site, recalculated as they change. The Norte is the most expensive camino to sleep on, because it passes through three of the wealthiest cities in Spain and a coast where the summer trade sets the prices. It is also the best camino to eat on: pintxos in the Basque Country, seafood in Cantabria, cider and fabada in Asturias. A pilgrim who eats well here spends more than on the Francés and does not regret it. Donativo albergues exist along the route too; leave what the night was worth to you.
May, June and September. The north coast is Atlantic: it rains in every month, and it rains more than the rest of Spain in all of them. July and August are the driest and the busiest, and the beaches are full of Spanish holidaymakers who have the same idea about the same towns. Temperatures rarely reach the 35 °C (95 °F) of the Meseta; a hot day on the Norte is 28 °C (82 °F) with a sea breeze. Winter is possible for the experienced, wet and short of open albergues.
Irún is on the border with France, with a railway station on the Spanish side and Hendaye's on the French side a short walk apart. Fly to Bilbao or San Sebastián and take the train east to start, or fly to Biarritz and come in from the French side. Bilbao, Santander and Gijón all have stations and buses if you would rather start partway. Santiago has an airport and fast trains to Madrid.
Finisterre and Muxía are three or four days beyond Santiago and worth every one of them. Coming the other way, the Primitivo branch from Villaviciosa is the natural alternative for the last third, and the Camino de San Salvador, from León to Oviedo over the Cantabrian mountains, joins the Norte's inland cousin from the south. All are on this site.
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Irún sits on the Spanish bank of the Río Bidasoa, directly across from France. It's the starting point of the Camino del Norte, though you could just as accurately call it the first city of the Basque Country — the language, the food, and the politics all shift the moment you cross the river.
The Puente de Santiago is the traditional starting marker. From there, waymarking through the city is thin — be alert and don't hesitate to ask locals for directions. The train station (often abbreviated ff.cc.) provides a useful orientation point.
The churches are worth a look if you're spending the night. Nuestra Señora del Juncal holds the oldest statue of the Virgin in the region. The Ermita de Santa Elena is one of the city's oldest buildings. And the hilltop Ermita de San Marcial rewards the climb with sweeping views over the Bidasoa valley and the border.
Irún functions more as a departure point than a destination. Services are solid — supermarkets, pharmacies, ATMs, and transport connections — and most pilgrims pass through in a morning. If accommodation is full, Hondarribia across the bay has good alternatives.
The name Irún is often confused with Irúña (the Basque name for Pamplona), something to keep in mind when booking tickets.Irún is also the starting point for the Basque Interior Camino, which travels southwest to join the Camino Francés in Santo Domingo de la Calzada or Burgos. Do not confuse the two, you are heading northwest from Irún.
Irún was one of three major Roman outposts in Basque territory, alongside Irúña (Pamplona) and Iruña de Oca. Two significant battles took place at nearby San Marcial: in 1522, a few hundred local Basques defended the city against 3,000 mercenaries sent by the King of Navarra, and in 1813 Spanish troops and the Duke of Wellington defeated Napoleonic forces on the same hill.
Of the major Basque coastal cities, Irún was the least industrialized. Its economy ran instead on cross-border trade — since the 19th century, Spanish and French railways have operated on different gauge tracks, requiring all passengers and goods to transfer here.
Getting started in Irún is easiest from the train station or the municipal albergue, both are located in the Barrio San Miguel (though there is no church dedicated to the Saint).From the terminal head straight towards the dome of the nearby Iglesia San Gabriel and Santa Gema, passing the Correos (post office) along the way. Continue straight past the church to the first intersection with a traffic light, the Paseo Colon.From here you have two choices:1. The old town of Irún; turn right and over the tracks to get to most of the churches, parks, and hotels.2. The municipal albergue and the camino; turn left and you are officially on the camino. At the first roundabout the camino continues straight and heads under the overpass. Alternatively, turn right at the roundabout to get to the municipal albergue.When the opportunity to cross to the left-hand side presents itself do so; the camino turns left 500m ahead immediately after crossing the river.NOTE: If going to Hondarribia was your plan, keep going straight after the bridge. Once you have left the main road, the camino begins the climb, first on secondary roads and then on trails, to the Santuario de Guadalupe.
Hondarribia sits across the Txingudi Bay from Irún and is worth the detour — or makes a perfectly good alternative starting point if accommodation in Irún is full. The old town occupies a fortified hilltop overlooking the bay, and it's considerably more atmospheric than its neighbor.
The Puerta de Santa María is the main gate through the Muralla — the walls that still encircle the old quarter. Inside, the Calle Mayor climbs steeply between stone townhouses with wrought-iron balconies and carved coats of arms. At the top sits the castle of Carlos V, now a parador with views across to France.
The lower town spreads along the waterfront, where the Barrio de la Marina has a different character entirely — brightly painted fishermen's houses, seafood restaurants, and a working harbor. The contrast between the fortress above and the fishing village below gives Hondarribia its particular appeal.
A water taxi crosses the bay to Pasajes, connecting to the camino without backtracking through Irún.
Hondarribia's walls tell a violent story. The town was besieged repeatedly — by the French alone at least nine times between the 16th and 19th centuries. Its strategic position at the mouth of the Bidasoa made it the key to Spain's northeastern border. The current walls date mostly to the 16th century, reinforced under Carlos V and Felipe II. Legend holds that the Apostle Santiago himself passed through Hondarribia on his way to Galicia.
What the ground between two towns is actually like: everything you pass through, the climbing, and where you could stop along the way. Not a plan — a description.
Route index
809 km from Irún to Santiago de Compostela. Most pilgrims walk it in 29 to 37 days. Every town below has its own page.
The Camino del Norte, also known as the Northern Way, is a mesmerizing coastal journey along the northern coast of Spain. It's a less traveled but incredibly scenic alternative to the more popular Camino Francés, offering a unique blend of stunning ocean views, lush landscapes, and rich cultural experiences.
Starting in the vibrant city of Irún, on the border with France, the Camino del Norte quickly immerses you in the beauty of the Basque Country. This region is known for its rugged coastline, verdant hills, and distinctive culture, including the unique Basque language. Imagine walking along cliffside paths with the Bay of Biscay's sparkling waters to your right and lush green mountains to your left.
As you continue westward, the route passes through Cantabria and Asturias, each with its own allure. In Cantabria, you'll encounter charming fishing villages and serene beaches, offering tranquil moments to reflect and relax. Asturias, known as "Natural Paradise," captivates with its dramatic coastline, interspersed with hidden coves and picturesque ports.
The Camino del Norte is not just a feast for the eyes but also for the palate. The northern regions of Spain are renowned for their culinary offerings. You'll get to savor fresh seafood, sample the famous Basque pintxos, and perhaps indulge in Asturias' famed cider. Each meal is an opportunity to taste the local flavors and connect with the region's culture.
Historically and culturally, the Camino del Norte is a treasure trove. You'll walk through ancient towns and cities steeped in history, like San Sebastián, with its stunning beach and vibrant old town, and Gijón, a city that perfectly blends history with a lively contemporary atmosphere.
In conclusion, the Camino del Norte offers a journey that's both challenging and rewarding. It's a path less crowded, promising peace and solitude, set against the backdrop of some of Spain's most breathtaking coastal scenery. It's perfect for those seeking a different perspective on the Camino experience, one that combines natural beauty, cultural richness, and culinary delights.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.
