Burgos → Covarrubias
60 km from Burgos to Covarrubias, the Spanish end of the Norwegian pilgrimage to Saint Olav. Two or three days, and almost nobody has heard of it.
New information comes in every day — from pilgrims on the road and people I know along the way — and it goes out the moment it does. The app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built: new features arrive routinely.
Pilgrims on the road and friends along the way send me changes every day, and they go out the same day. The San Olav app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built — new features arrive routinely.
Get the appFrom the listings on this site, recalculated as they change.
This is the odd one out on the site and I like it for that. It is a long weekend rather than a pilgrimage, two or three days out of Burgos into a part of Castilla that most people drive through, with a story attached that joins a Norwegian king to a Spanish village. It is for anyone with a couple of spare days in Burgos, for the curious, and for people who collect the caminos nobody else has heard of.
Who it isn't for: anyone who wants a Compostela. This route does not go to Santiago and never did.
Saint Olav was the king who made Norway Christian, and the pilgrimage to his shrine at Trondheim is the great northern one. The Spanish connection is Princess Kristina of Norway, who came south in 1258 to marry a Castilian prince and died young in Covarrubias, where she is buried. The Camino de San Olav links Burgos to her tomb: 60 km through the Arlanza valley, dry, empty and full of ruins.
Covarrubias is a genuinely beautiful medieval village, timber-framed houses and a collegiate church with Kristina's sarcophagus inside. The roofless twelfth-century abbey of San Pedro de Arlanza, in a gorge by the river nearby, is worth the detour and is the most atmospheric ruin in the province.
Easy. Rolling country, farm track and quiet road, nothing high and nothing steep. The difficulty is heat and the lack of shade in summer, and a stretch or two where the next village is a long way off.
There are beds in the villages along the way and in Covarrubias itself, though not many, and this is a route where a phone call the day before is sensible. Burgos at the start has everything. Every place with a bed is listed on this page.
The prices at the top of this page come from the listings on this site, recalculated as they change. Castilla is inexpensive, and the roast lamb of the Arlanza valley is the meal to plan the walk around.
Spring or autumn. The Arlanza valley in August is an oven, 35 °C (95 °F) and no trees, and in January it is cold and windswept. April, May, late September and October are the months.
Burgos has a railway station with fast trains from Madrid and is on the Camino Francés. From Covarrubias a bus runs back to Burgos, not often; check the timetable before you set out rather than after you arrive.
Pair it with a couple of days in Burgos, or walk it as a rest-day excursion from the Francés for anyone who wants to see a different Castilla from the one on the main road.
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INTRODUCTION
The way of San Olav is an easy 3-day walk from Burgos to Covarrubias in Spain, to the tomb of the princess Kristina of Norway.
On purpose, I have named this guide “A Walker's Guide”, since this route is not a pilgrimage as such; There is no saint or holy place at the end, only the tomb of a Norwegian princess, 800 years old. But it is a nice, tranquil and easy walk thru pleasant and undisturbed landscapes in rural Spain.
A nice break from the noise of the Camino Frances, if you want a couple of days in solitude. No bed race here...
GETTING A CREDENTIAL, MAP & INFO
The Tourist Office in Burgos can supply you with a credential containing space for sellos, and route info, and a brochure containing a map; all with glossy paper, so you'll need to let your sellos dry for a few minutes.
Note that some of the information in those papers may not be totally correct/updated (see more further down in this guide), but all in all, together with this guide, you should have no problems getting there.Some
SHOPS & WATER
There are no shops on this Camino. The villages are small, so you eat in your Casa Rurales, have them prepare your breakfast/lunch, and eat some in the bars that exist. If you need more, you buy it in Burgos and carry it. Always carry enough water, as I only found 2 working fountains.
LANGUAGE
You will need some basic Spanish, at least for booking, directions, foods, etc. Also, by being able to communicate at basic level at least, your walk will be much more enjoyable, IMHO. There is no much understanding of English in rural Spain.
ALBERGUES & ATM
There are no albergues on this Camino, only Casa Rurales. And no ATMs until Covarrubias, but bring enough cash for drinks, food and Casa Rurales.
OTHER RESOURCES ON THE INTERNET
There is an interesting and informative piece of info regarding the route and its surroundings obviously recorded by another walker on the website Wikiloc.com.
The tourist office in Covarrubias has a website in Spanish only.
The San Olav chapel hasits own website with info on opening times etc. All is in Spanish, but the keepers are Norwegians and will understand English if you use their contact form. Check opening hours. E-mail address: info@capilladesanolav.com
The world's largest English-speaking forum on the different Caminos in Spain is www.caminodesantiago.me/community. It has a separate section on El Camino San Olav. Ask and get answers there.
There exists a nice website for this Camino in English, Spanish & Norwegian. Very good descriptions of the villages en route, and a good map service, but not always precice regarding the route and stopping places. However, very interesting, and complementary to this guide.
PLANNING TIPS
This will normally be a 3-day walk. The chapel is open only on Saturdays and Sundays, so if you start from Burgos on a Thursday or Friday, you will be able to attend to the Sunday sermon. Check beforehand if there actually is a sermon the actual Sunday. Also,the church in Covarrubias with the sarcophagus with Kristina is, is closed on Tuesdays.
WAYMARKERS
The way is normally marked with dark poles, some red painting and a San Olav cross on top. They are not big, so keep your eyes open. A few of them have been stripped of the San Olav cross by what we must call “touristigrinos”, but the red paint is still there to follow. You will also find some stone markers. Just follow the San Olav cross.
Burgos was originally founded at the end of the 9th century in a bid to repopulate these northern plains. From the expulsions of the Muslims (around the end of the 11th century) it quickly became one of Castilla’s most important city. It was here that the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand welcomed home Christopher Columbus after his second voyage to the new world, and it was here where General Francisco Franco was publicly proclaimed as Generalísimo in 1936 and which would serve as the dictators base of operations until the end of the civil war.
Set along the wonderful río Arlanzon, the city was built with massive walls and even more massive gates. In spite of this, the territory of Burgos (but more to the point Castilla) was widely disputed. The seed for much of the fighting was the will of King Fernando-I, who although wise enough to rule over the northern regions, was not too clever in managing his estate. He chose to divide the north into three regions upon his death, with each region going to a different heir.
Alfonso VI received León, García received Galicia, Sancho II received Castilla, and his daughter Urraca received the city of Zamora.
More land disputes followed and in the end it was Alfonso that reigned over the whole territory and was crowned the emperor of the Iberian Peninsula. This was at the end of 11th century, and the wealth collected by Alfonso from tariffs throughout the peninsula was transformed into palaces and a Cathedral, catapulting Burgos into prosperity.
Burgos is also the home of El Cid, a fierce warrior, and cunning politician. He was banished from the city by King Alfonso for having forced him to take an oath attesting to his innocence in the death of his brother Sancho. El Cid would eventually turn down an invitation to return and fight for Alfonso, and instead traveled east to Valencia where he maneuvered himself into a kingdom of his own. He is now buried in the Cathedral.
The way out of Burgos is waymarked along the Calle del Carmen: take right after the bridge and follow Calle del Carmen to the left; but I followed the Calle Madrid, which is simpler: When you have crossed the bridge, the Calle Madrid is straight ahead.
The Burgos bus station is in the building to the left. Follow the Calle Madrid straight on. This guide describes the route via Calle Madrid.
When you arrive at a large roundabout, take the right hand street, to the right of the the red building. After a short walk you will pass a small park to your left. Just go straight on. Soon you will find the first waymarker of San Olav. From this point, the way is well marked to Los Ausines (see details later). As you walk on out of Burgos, you will have a trafficked road out to your left (the BU-800). After a few 100 m. you will find the first marker of San Olav.
After the exit from Burgos, this is an easy walk on a plain stretch. Shortly after the namesign of Cardenadijo, you come to a small crossing. If you want a rest, take to the left and then take the first street to right to get to the only bar/cantina.
For any of the services in town, turn left when you get to the part pictured above. Follow road straight to the main road that runs parallel to the camino.
A simple walk through an open landscape. A 500m. dark tunnel may seem a bit frightening, but it is easy and safe walking. So far, the San Olav shares the path with the Vias Verdes, but at Modubar de Emparedada they separate. Pay close attention to the sign at the crossing: San Olav is down to the right.
After 100m. there is a working fountain for filling up your water.
What the ground between two towns is actually like: everything you pass through, the climbing, and where you could stop along the way. Not a plan — a description.
Route index
60 km from Burgos to Covarrubias. Most pilgrims walk it in 2 to 3 days. Every town below has its own page.
The Camino de San Olav is a rather unique and lesser-known route among the various Camino de Santiago trails. Originating from the historic city of Burgos in Spain, this path is relatively short but rich in spiritual and cultural significance. It offers a peaceful detour from the bustling Camino Francés and leads to the serene destination of the Church of San Olav near Covarrubias.
Starting in Burgos, a city renowned for its majestic Gothic cathedral and deep historical roots, the Camino de San Olav immediately immerses pilgrims in the rich heritage of Castilla y León. Burgos is not just a starting point but a profound historical backdrop that sets the tone for the journey ahead.
As you step away from Burgos, the route takes you through the picturesque landscapes of the Burgos province. The Camino de San Olav is characterized by its tranquil rural settings, rolling hills, and the charming villages of Castilian countryside. This path offers a stark contrast to the more frequented routes, providing a sense of solitude and introspection.
The journey is relatively short, covering around 58 kilometers, but it's brimming with historical and cultural significance. The route is named after Saint Olav, the 12th-century Norwegian king who was later canonized. The connection between Spain and Norway might seem unexpected, but it's a fascinating element of the Camino de San Olav, highlighting the wide-reaching influence of the pilgrimage to Santiago.
The final destination, the Church of San Olav near the village of Covarrubias, is a hidden gem. This church is a symbol of the historical ties between Spain and Norway and is an architectural beauty in its own right. Surrounded by serene nature, it offers a peaceful retreat and a perfect culmination to this short but meaningful pilgrimage.
Throughout the journey, pilgrims have the opportunity to experience the warm hospitality of the rural Spanish communities, taste the local cuisine, and immerse themselves in the tranquility of the countryside.
In essence, the Camino de San Olav is a spiritual and cultural journey that offers a different perspective on the Camino experience. It's ideal for those looking for a shorter pilgrimage, a quiet path away from the crowds, and a deep dive into the historical connections that transcend borders.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.
