Camino de Invierno
Saint Jean Pied de Port → Santiago de Compostela
The winter way. 249 km from Ponferrada around the mountains the Francés climbs over, invented by medieval pilgrims who looked at O Cebreiro in February and said no.
New information comes in every day — from pilgrims on the road and people I know along the way — and it goes out the moment it does. The app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built: new features arrive routinely.
Pilgrims on the road and friends along the way send me changes every day, and they go out the same day. The The Camino Frances and Camino de Invierno app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built — new features arrive routinely.
Get the appFrom the listings on this site, recalculated as they change. 26 albergues ask for a donation rather than a price: pay what the night was worth to you, not nothing.
The Invierno exists because of one hill. Pilgrims coming west along the Francés in winter reached Ponferrada, looked at O Cebreiro under snow, and went around it instead: down the Sil valley and across the south of Galicia, rejoining the main road near Lalín. It is still a good idea, and not only in winter. This is the route for someone who has walked the Francés and wants a quieter last week, or who wants nine or ten days through the most beautiful corner of Galicia that the other caminos never see.
Who it isn't for: anyone who needs a bed to be certain at the end of any afternoon. The Invierno has the thinnest supply of beds on this site, and some days you have one realistic option. Know that before you set off, not at four o'clock.
249 km from Ponferrada to Santiago. It leaves the Bierzo past Las Médulas, the collapsed Roman gold mine that is a UNESCO site and looks like nothing else in Spain: red pinnacles of earth where a mountain used to be. Then the Sil valley and the Ribeira Sacra, terraced vineyards on slopes so steep the grapes are brought up by rail, with Romanesque monasteries tucked into the folds. Monforte de Lemos is the halfway town. After it the route climbs out of the valley onto the Galician upland, through Chantada and Rodeiro to Lalín, and joins the Sanabrés for the last two days into Santiago.
Harder than its length suggests. The Sil valley is a gorge, and the route climbs out of it and back into it more than once; the ascent from the river to Chantada and the climb to the Alto de Faro are the two days that count. Nothing is technical and nothing is high, but the gradients are real and the days between beds can be long. Underfoot it is farm track, vineyard road and quiet tarmac. Waymarking has improved a great deal and is now reliable.
This is the real constraint. The Invierno is the thinnest camino for beds on this site, and the table on each town's page will show you days where the next place with beds is the only place. Plan those days the night before. What beds there are tend to be good: small albergues run by people who chose to open on a quiet route, casas rurales in villages where the camino is the only trade, and Monforte with everything a town provides. Every bed is listed on this page.
The prices at the top of this page come from the listings on this site, recalculated as they change. Fewer albergues means more nights in casas rurales and pensions than on the Francés, so a pilgrim in a dormitory every night is harder to be here than elsewhere. The Ribeira Sacra makes wine, and eating in the valley is cheap and good. Donativo albergues are few on this route; where you find one, leave what the night was worth to you.
Despite the name, not deep winter unless you know what you are doing. The Invierno is lower than the Francés's mountains, not warm, and January in the Sil valley is wet and short of open beds. Spring and autumn are the months, and autumn is the one I would choose: the vineyards are being harvested, the terraces are gold, and the light on the river is the best in Galicia. Summer is fine and warm, 30 °C (86 °F) in the valley on a hot day, rarely more.
Ponferrada has a railway station on the line from Madrid and León, and is a natural place to pick up the Invierno after walking the Francés that far. Monforte de Lemos has a station too, for the second half. Santiago has an airport and fast trains to Madrid.
Walk the whole Francés and branch off at Ponferrada and the two routes together are a month and a half that finishes quietly. From Santiago, Finisterre and Muxía are three or four days on.
Show or hide:
Saint Jean Pied de Port — Donibane Garazi in Basque — is where the majority of Camino Francés pilgrims begin. Several European routes converge here, funneling walkers from Paris, Vézelay, Le Puy, and beyond into a single starting point at the foot of the Pyrenees.
The town runs along the Nive river, its cobbled Rue de la Citadelle descending from the old fortress to the Porte d'Espagne, the medieval gate through which pilgrims have passed for centuries. It's a beautiful small town, made even more so by the anxious energy of all those about to set off.
The Pilgrim Office (39 Rue de la Citadelle) issues credenciales, stamps, and weather reports for the mountain crossing. It gets busy — arrive early or expect a queue. They'll also give you the latest on route conditions over the pass, which you should take seriously.
Accommodation fills up fast in summer. There are several albergues including the municipal Accueil des Pèlerins and the private Gîte de l'Esprit du Chemin, plus a range of hotels and gîtes d'étape along the Rue de la Citadelle and Rue d'Espagne. Book ahead if arriving on a weekend.
The town has everything you need: supermarkets, pharmacies, outdoor gear shops, ATMs, and plenty of restaurants. For your last French meal, the restaurants along the main street do hearty Basque fare — try the trout or the gâteau basque. Monday is market day, and coincidentally one of the quieter pilgrim days.
The mountain crossing to Roncesvalles is dangerous in bad weather. Snow, ice, fog, and high winds can all occur, even outside winter. Check the weather forecast at the Pilgrim Office before departing. These mountains have claimed lives — take the warnings seriously. If conditions are poor, take the Valcarlos route or wait a day.
Saint Jean Pied de Port — literally "Saint John at the Foot of the Pass" — has been a gathering point for pilgrims since the medieval period. It sits in Lower Navarre, historically part of the Kingdom of Navarre rather than France, and the Basque identity runs deep.
The Citadel above town was rebuilt by Vauban in the 17th century on older fortifications. The town's defensive walls, the Porte d'Espagne, and the Porte Saint-Jacques (a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998) survive largely intact. For centuries this was the last provisioning stop before the dangerous mountain crossing into Spain, and the concentration of pilgrim infrastructure — hospitals, churches, hostels — reflects that critical function.
Two routes cross the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles: the Napoleon Route over the high pass (the traditional and more popular option), and the Valcarlos Route through the valley (lower, longer, and the bad-weather alternative). Both are approximately 25-27 km to Roncesvalles.
From the Porte d'Espagne, the Napoleon Route climbs steeply on road through Honto and past Orisson before gaining the ridgeline. The Valcarlos Route drops to Arnéguy and follows the valley road through Valcarlos before climbing steeply from Gañecoleta to the Puerto de Ibañeta.
The Napoleon Route is closed to walkers from November 1 to March 31 (and sometimes longer depending on conditions). During this period you must take the Valcarlos Route. Even outside the closure period, the Napoleon Route should only be attempted in clear weather.
Two routes cross the Pyrenees from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. Your choice depends on the weather, the season, and your own fitness.
The Napoleon Route is the high road. It climbs steeply from town on asphalt through Honto and past Orisson, then follows the open ridgeline over the Collado de Bentartea and the Collado de Lepoeder before descending through beech forest to Roncesvalles. The views are extraordinary — on a clear day you can see deep into both France and Spain — but the exposure is total. There's no shelter above Orisson, and weather can change in minutes. This route is closed from November 1 to March 31.
The Valcarlos Route is the valley road. It drops to Arnéguy at the border, follows the N-135 through Valcarlos, then climbs steeply from Gañecoleta to the Puerto de Ibañeta before descending to Roncesvalles. It's longer, less scenic, and the road walking through the valley isn't the most inspiring, but it's the safe option in bad weather and the only option in winter.
Most pilgrims walk the Napoleon Route in good weather. It's the more dramatic and more historic crossing. But don't let pride push you up the mountain in dangerous conditions — the Valcarlos Route gets you to Roncesvalles just the same.
primary route
The Napoleon Route - 24.3 km
The Napoleon Route is the longer of the two and covers small mountain roads and trails. It was popularized as a way to bypass the banditry that was all too common in the valley below. You will soon see that up in the mountains, there are few places to hide.
During times of poor weather, this route will be closed. When the skies are clear you can see for miles, otherwise you are not likely to see past the horses and sheep that pasture here.
alternate route
The Valcarlos Route - 23.5 km
The Valcarlos Route follows close to the road and is the advised route during poor weather. It passes through two towns (with services) located directly on the road between here and Roncesvalles, and two villages that are not on the road and which have no services.
Honto is the first hamlet on the Napoleon Route, about 5 km from Saint Jean Pied de Port and 400 m higher. A small cluster of farmhouses with a bar and the Ferme Ithurburia gîte d'étape, which also serves meals. This is the last chance to eat or drink before Orisson (another 3 km up the road).
If you're feeling the climb already, this is a good reality check — you're less than a quarter of the way to Roncesvalles and the steepest sections are still ahead.
Beyond Honto the road continues to climb steadily on asphalt. After about 1 km the camino leaves the road for the first time, winding uphill through a series of switchbacks. The Kayola albergue, operated by the Orisson team, sits just off the route with beds and a small terrace. From here it's roughly 2 km more to Orisson.
Orisson is a popular stopping point for pilgrims splitting the mountain crossing into two days. The Refuge Orisson is a purpose-built gîte with bunks, a restaurant, and a terrace with sweeping views back toward Saint Jean and the French Basque Country. Dinner is communal and lively — it's where many pilgrim friendships begin.
Booking is essential, especially from April to October. The refuge fills up weeks in advance in peak season. If you can't get a bed here, your options are to push on to Roncesvalles (another 19 km with 800 m more of climbing) or to go back down to Honto or Saint Jean.
A small shop sells basic supplies and cold drinks. There's no other commercial service between here and Roncesvalles.
If you arrive here late in the day, stop and ask about conditions ahead. Don't push on into deteriorating weather. Make sure someone at the refuge knows your plan if you continue — in bad conditions, people do get lost on the mountain above. Mobile phone reception is unreliable beyond this point.
Borda is a small cluster of buildings on the Napoleon Route between Orisson and the Pic d'Orisson. No services. The climb continues steadily from here as you leave the tree line behind and enter open mountain pasture.
A statue of the Virgin stands at the Pic d'Orisson (1,060 m), marking the point where the route leaves the last of the trees behind and enters fully exposed terrain. From here to the descent into Roncesvalles there's no shelter of any kind. On a clear day the views in every direction are immense — the Basque hills rolling north into France, the high Pyrenees to the east.
The Collado de Bentartea (1,340 m) is the high point of the ridgeline walk, sometimes called Napoleon's Pass. A food truck often parks here selling drinks, snacks, and bocadillos — welcome relief after the long exposed climb from Orisson. This is also the last chance for a stamp on the French side.
From here the route follows the ridge southward with Spain opening up to your left and France falling away to your right. On a clear day it's one of the finest stretches of walking on any Camino. In fog, it's disorienting and potentially dangerous — follow the markers carefully.
The Collado de Lepoeder (1,430 m) is the highest point on the Napoleon Route and the border ridge between France and Spain. From here the route begins its long descent through beech forest toward Roncesvalles, dropping nearly 600 m over the final 5 km. The change is dramatic — from exposed ridge to dense woodland in the space of a few hundred meters. The path is steep and can be muddy and slippery, especially after rain. Take your time on the descent; tired legs and wet roots are a bad combination.
Arnéguy sits right on the French-Spanish border, straddling the Nive river. It's the first settlement on the Valcarlos Route after leaving Saint Jean Pied de Port, about 8 km down the valley. A couple of bars, a few shops, and some accommodation options. The border crossing itself is unmarked and unremarkable — you simply walk across the bridge and you're in Spain.
Cross the main road (D933/N-135) and the bridge into Spain. The route follows a country road lower in the valley, bringing you into Valcarlos from below. The walking is flat and easy along the river.
Valcarlos (Luzaide in Basque) is the main town on the valley route, sitting in a deep green gorge along the Nive de Arnéguy. It's a quiet, slightly faded border town with the essentials: a couple of bars, a small shop, a pharmacy, and a few accommodation options including the Albergue Municipal and several casas rurales.
The modern church is often locked. Most services are along the main road — if you've entered from the lower valley path, you may need to walk a short distance back toward Arnéguy to reach them.
This is where Charlemagne's rearguard was ambushed by Basque forces in 778, the historical event behind the Song of Roland. The narrow valley makes the tactical logic of the ambush immediately obvious.
Leave town along the main road, eventually branching left onto a smaller road. Gañecoleta is less than 1 km from this junction. From there the serious climbing begins.
Gañecoleta is a tiny settlement on the Valcarlos Route where the serious climbing begins. A few scattered farmhouses, no services. From here the route climbs steeply — and relentlessly — toward the Puerto de Ibañeta, gaining over 600 m in roughly 8 km. The final few kilometers are particularly steep.
If you started in Valcarlos, this is where you begin to understand why the Napoleon Route is considered the harder option for its views rather than its difficulty — the Valcarlos Route has its own brutal climb.
The Puerto de Ibañeta (1,057 m) is where the two routes from Saint Jean Pied de Port converge — the Napoleon Route descending from the Collado de Lepoeder through beech forest, and the Valcarlos Route climbing steeply from Gañecoleta.
The modern Ermita de San Salvador marks the site of an older monastery that once received pilgrims at this pass. A stone monument to Roland stands nearby, commemorating the battle of 778. The views south toward the valley of Roncesvalles are a welcome sight after either crossing.
This pass has been an important crossing point since Roman times and was one of the principal routes into the Iberian peninsula. The chapel is usually open and makes for a quiet moment before the final descent.
Both routes rejoin in Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles (Orreaga in Basque) is where the Camino Francés truly begins for many pilgrims. Those who walked from Saint Jean arrive exhausted and triumphant; those starting here begin fresh-legged and wide-eyed. You can tell them apart by the length of their stride.
The village is tiny — essentially the Collegiate church complex, the albergue, the Posada hotel, and a handful of other buildings along a single road. Everything revolves around the Colegiata de Santa María, a 13th-century Gothic church where the pilgrim mass and blessing take place each evening. Don't miss it.
The albergue is one of the largest on the Francés with nearly 200 beds in a renovated medieval hospital. Dinner tickets are sold at reception; the communal dining room is a chaotic, multilingual affair and a great introduction to Camino social life. The Posada restaurant is the other dining option — more refined, with a solid menu del día.
It doesn't take long to see everything here, and almost every building has historical or artistic value. The Silo de Carlomagno (the oldest structure), the chapter house with its Romanesque capitals, and the 14th-century cloister are all worth a wander.
The Battle of Roncesvalles (778) is the founding legend. Charlemagne's rearguard, led by the paladin Roland, was ambushed and destroyed by Basque forces as it retreated through these mountains. The event was transformed into the epic Song of Roland, one of the oldest surviving works of French literature, though the poem replaced the Basques with Saracens for dramatic effect.
The Collegiate of Roncesvalles was founded in 1132 as a monastery and pilgrim hospital, and it has served pilgrims continuously since. The Gothic church of Santa María Real houses the silver-clad Romanesque Virgin of Roncesvalles. The 13th-century chapter house, known as the Silo de Carlomagno, is where tradition places the burial of the battle's fallen.
The camino starts on a path to the west of the main road, heading into beech forest before returning to the road as you approach Burguete. It's a gentle, flat walk of about 3 km — a merciful start after the mountain.
What the ground between two towns is actually like: everything you pass through, the climbing, and where you could stop along the way. Not a plan — a description.
Route index
810 km from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. Most pilgrims walk it in 29 to 37 days. Every town below has its own page.
The Winter Way, is an intriguing alternative to the traditional routes to Santiago de Compostela. Originating in Ponferrada and spanning approximately 265 kilometers, or about 165 miles, this pathway was initially established as a practical workaround to the often snow-clogged portions of the Camino Francés during the winter months. However, with the last 100 kilometers of the Camino Francés becoming increasingly crowded, the Camino de Invierno has been gaining popularity among pilgrims in all seasons, standing as a less congested yet equally fulfilling journey to the revered cathedral.
The route provides an intimate journey through the landscapes of Castilla y León and Galicia, with an array of valleys, mountains, vineyards, and rivers to mesmerize the intrepid traveler. On the cultural side, the Camino de Invierno doesn't skimp on offerings either; you'll experience historical riches including medieval bridges, Roman mines, and rustic hamlets seemingly untouched by time. As for difficulty, the terrain is varied and moderately challenging, with a good mix of ascents and descents to keep things interesting. It might make you contemplate why you didn't stick to the treadmill at the gym, but the views will quickly remind you why.
Food-wise, prepare for a gastronomic adventure that celebrates the humble and hearty cuisine of rural Spain. As you meander through the vineyards of Ribeira Sacra, the wine will flow almost as freely as the camaraderie. From Castilian roast lamb to Galician octopus, each region will introduce you to its own culinary tradition, making the Camino de Invierno a pilgrimage for your palate as well as your spirit.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.
