Pilgrims on the road and friends along the way send me changes every day, and they go out the same day. The Camino de Invierno app carries all of it offline, and it's still being built — new features arrive routinely.
Get the appViana is the last town in Navarra and it wants you to know it has been here a while. The fortifications are obvious — the town perches on a ridge, its walls built high and thick to defend the Navarrese border against Castile and, later, La Rioja. The strategic logic is visible in every street.
The Iglesia de Santa María has a magnificent Renaissance facade — one of the finest in Navarra. At its base, a marble slab marks the grave of Cesare Borgia, who was killed in the fields outside Viana on March 11, 1507. The son of Pope Alexander VI and the model for Machiavelli's Prince, Borgia died in an ambush during a siege — a suitably dramatic end for a dramatic life. The epitaph reads simply: "Generalísimo de los ejércitos de Navarra y Pontificios."
The ruins of the Iglesia de San Pedro sit at the west end of town near a small park with views over the plains to the west and the mountains to the north. Several albergues, a handful of bars, and a few good restaurants (the Armendariz has a sidrería in the basement where you serve your own cider — a two-person operation involving careful aim and a bucket) make Viana worth more than a quick pass-through.
All services are available: pharmacy, ATM, supermarket.
Viana celebrates with enthusiasm. The major fiestas include San Felices (February 1), the combined Magdalena and Santiago celebrations (July 21-25), and the Fiesta de la Virgen de Nieva — a movable feast held from the Saturday to Wednesday that includes the first Sunday after September 8. The town occasionally closes its streets for a running of the bulls, so don't be surprised if your arrival coincides with temporary barricades and the sound of hooves.
Viana was founded in 1219 as a frontier fortress, and its walls held off several prolonged sieges over the following centuries. The town changed hands repeatedly as the border between Navarra and Castile shifted. The concentration of fortifications — the high perch, the thick walls, the multiple gates — reflects centuries of contested territory.
Cesare Borgia arrived in Viana as a general in the service of his brother-in-law, King Juan III of Navarra. He was killed on March 11, 1507, during a skirmish outside the town walls. He was originally buried inside the church, but his remains were later moved to the entrance — whether as a mark of respect for his rank or disrespect for his character depends on which version of the story you prefer.
Leaving Viana, you cross the border into La Rioja. The transition is gradual — the landscape opens up as you descend from Viana's ridge toward the Ebro valley. The Ermita de la Virgen de las Cuevas marks the old boundary, and from there the approach to Logroño is flat and increasingly urban.
31. March 2026 - 12:41
We stopped here for a coffee and some cake. The conversation was great — the owner is so lovely! We continued onto Logroño so didn’t have time for the foot bath, but she gave us some Epsom salt for our journey onwards. Stop by if you can.
17. August 2025 - 14:14
Lovely people, nice place. Go for a lunch or a drink. The Jesus meditation is also nice when you’re not religious.
2. August 2025 - 16:39
Highly recommend the ‘new’ Casa Palaciega Doña Leocadia. Only open three weeks and by far the best stay we had on the Camino.
It’s a beautiful 400 year old home situated right next to the ruins of the Iglesia de San Pedro (and right on the Camino route). Very comfortable rooms, delicious home-cooked breakfast, delightful host in Olivier, and a fascinating tour of the old wine press and basement cellar.
More expensive than the average Camino bed, but a genuinely unique experience.
21. July 2025 - 19:40
Excellent stay here.
The albergue looks very new. The hospitalera is friendly and helpful.
The bed is comfortable enough.
The showers are separate for men and women, and are great.
There are lockers with locks, but they are a bit too small so it's not easy to take the bag in and out, and it'll make a lot of noises. Please don't put your bag in there at night otherwise you'll wake everyone up the next morning.
It's right next to the main street with the restaurants with great pinchos.
12. July 2025 - 20:40
Affordable, delicious, great portions! On a Main Street, can’t understand why this place isn’t packed! Stop here, pilgrims!
10. June 2025 - 18:36
Single beds in shared triple room from €20.
Doubles from €52.
All with private bathroom.
Breakfast €8.
Lunch and dinner options.
www.pensionsanpedro.es
28. December 2024 - 18:48
The main church has been undergoing extensive external renovations in 2023-2024, which are set to continue into 2025 at least. For this reason, the church albergue is closed.
26. December 2024 - 20:09
Viana faced the enemy - Logroño (old Castilla) visible across the Ebro Valley from atop of the huge defensive walls of the garden behind the ruined fortified church of San Pedro (free to enter). The garden is a great spot to watch sunset, as well as to view the Camino as it heads out to Logroño.
With a population of just 5000, Viana always has something happening, be it bull running, concerts, beer or wine festivals - the village never stops all year round.
The main pedestrian street through the village is where you’ll find locals and pilgrims mingling each evening. It is a true delight on the Camino Frances.
Look out for local British author Diem Burden, who is always out and about chatting to pilgrims. He’ll also gladly give you a guided historical tour of the town for free!
16. July 2024 - 19:10
Nice tearoom with foot baths and Jesus meditation available.
11. May 2024 - 18:01
This restaurant is sadly overhyped, find another place to patronize. The staff is rude and dismissive to Pilgrims. Sadly they are a bad representation of an otherwise lovely town.
7. May 2024 - 9:47
I stayed here 6-7 May 2024. The rooms were nice and the beds goid with sheets on the mattresses and pillow. The showers were nice. Washing and drying service available for 6 euros. Dinner was Pasta with tomato sauce and a little meat, a piece of pork meat and a yoghurt. Breakfast as much toasted bred, cornflakes, coffee and milk as you want.
14. April 2024 - 21:42
I rarely ever write reviews but my stay in this very clean and well resourced Albergue was amazing.
I never eat pilgrim dinners but had a feeling we were going to be given something special and wasn’t disappointed with meat and pasta and even vegetarian for a couple of pilgrims.
The laundry facilities were first class and the showers excellent.
The hospitlero lady simply wonderful, welcoming and cheerful couldn’t do enough to assist us in anything we needed.
5 Stars
12. June 2023 - 16:40
Possibly my favorite stop so far.
Great food, friendly people, easy to navigate.
6. June 2023 - 21:29
Great street with bakery’s, bars and food, but unless you arrive late there isn’t much reason to stay with the city a 15 bus away. Only one bus stop tho near the main highway so try find it early cause the bus times arnt great, only about 4 between 1-8
1. May 2023 - 7:41
A little uphill leaving Torres heading to Vienna.
13. September 2022 - 18:49
Viana is a lovely medieval town and I’m so glad I stopped there. The church is beautiful and make sure to go up to the castle ruins where you get a great view of the valley, I went there at sunset and it was stunning!
3. September 2022 - 13:35
Allergens IZAR is open as of Sept 3,2022
Friendly staff, clean and spacious.
5. June 2022 - 11:14
Met a 60/70 year old local just past Viana who seemed friendly at first, but don't engage or he may try to cop a feel.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.
