Two options over the mountain

Two routes cross the Pyrenees from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. Your choice depends on the weather, the season, and your own fitness.

The Napoleon Route is the high road. It climbs steeply from town on asphalt through Honto and past Orisson, then follows the open ridgeline over the Collado de Bentartea and the Collado de Lepoeder before descending through beech forest to Roncesvalles. The views are extraordinary — on a clear day you can see deep into both France and Spain — but the exposure is total. There's no shelter above Orisson, and weather can change in minutes. This route is closed from November 1 to March 31.

The Valcarlos Route is the valley road. It drops to Arnéguy at the border, follows the N-135 through Valcarlos, then climbs steeply from Gañecoleta to the Puerto de Ibañeta before descending to Roncesvalles. It's longer, less scenic, and the road walking through the valley isn't the most inspiring, but it's the safe option in bad weather and the only option in winter.

Most pilgrims walk the Napoleon Route in good weather. It's the more dramatic and more historic crossing. But don't let pride push you up the mountain in dangerous conditions — the Valcarlos Route gets you to Roncesvalles just the same.