Portomarín has a strange history. The original town sat on the banks of the Río Miño until 1962, when the valley was flooded to create the Belesar reservoir. The entire town was relocated to higher ground, and the most important buildings — the Iglesia de San Nicolás and the doorway of the Iglesia de San Pedro — were disassembled, moved stone by stone, and rebuilt on the new site.
You cross the reservoir on a long modern bridge, and when the water is low in late summer the ruins of the old town emerge ghostlike from the lake bed — foundations, walls, the outline of the old bridge.
The Iglesia de San Nicolás, rebuilt on the hilltop, is a fortress-church with a rose window and crenellated roofline that looks more military than ecclesiastical. Inside, the Romanesque interior is impressive — the reassembly was expertly done. The doorway of the old Iglesia de San Pedro has been set into the wall of the new church.
The town has a pleasant central plaza, several albergues and hotels, bars and restaurants. Portomarín produces an aguardiente (grape spirit) with a strong local following. The main street has all basic services.
The terrain on both sides of Portomarín is hilly — you descend steeply to the bridge and climb steeply out the other side.
Be aware of high-speed traffic as you are required to cross back and forth across the main road.
The original Portomarín was an important river crossing on the Roman road and later on the pilgrim route. The Roman bridge and the medieval town were destroyed by the 1962 flooding, though the key monuments were saved. The relocation effort, while controversial, preserved the most significant architectural elements.
From the square simply head downhill along the colonnaded street and stick to it until you arrive at the main road. DO NOT keep going straight. Rather turn left and head back in the direction of the bridge into town. Before you get there arrows will direct you onto a different bridge over a small river that feeds the reservoir.
At the end of the bridge are two options: TURN RIGHT.
From here it is a steadily uphill march all the way to Gonzar, passing Toxibo with its hórreo along the way. After passing through a stretch of forest the camino returns to the main road and parallels it on a gravel track. This track crosses back and forth over the main road on several occasions. Be mindful of traffic here, particularly during the morning hours when the area can be thick with fog.
7. June 2026 - 9:17
About a mile and a half outside of Porto Moran there is a sign that says go left, but that doesn’t take you long what the map suggests I’ve got no idea what or where that takes you but we are going along the road to Gazar
10. August 2025 - 22:42
From Sarria on there are very différent pilgrims walking in groups. There are very noisy, especialy the spanish. The problem is also more when there are lots of beds in one room.
29. April 2025 - 13:28
A special find run by a special, kind man. Helped me during the blackout on April 28. Stop for the pilgrim meal or even a coffee.
9. October 2024 - 16:11
On the main drag, do not miss late lunch/ dinner at Restaurant Xoanes. Beautiful covered patio. The Galician octopus and roasted peppers were exquisite! David’s sangria was delicious, service was warm, fast and friendly.
5. October 2024 - 15:07
Delightful service for check in, very nice patio and amenities. Beds are very comfortable. Room had a musty smell.
13. September 2024 - 22:52
At new hotel Starz. Nice breakfast. Try a “chupito” at Xanoes, good food.
16. July 2024 - 7:13
Would it be unreasonable to hope that those who snore, and know they do, would find accommodation where their snoring affects fewer people. Last night I stayed at the Albergue de Peregrinos de Portomarin when a couple of men checked in. One of them boasted how long he had walked and that it would cause him to snore. This was in a room of 30 people. I don’t know if anyone slept through it but it downright inconsiderate. I don’t care how cheap the bed is or that there are hot showers. If you can’t sleep it’s a place to avoid. 30 in a room that size is unreasonable at any price.
14. April 2024 - 18:24
Our room was beautiful and newly renovated. The beds were very comfortable and the shower was fantastic. There were towels folded into the shape of an elephant on each of our beds too! Such a nice touch
It’s located just steps from the main plaza of the town too - so was a perfect location for us.
19. March 2024 - 0:48
Take second option; take the stairs. Arrive at this amazing hotel. Treat yourself to an hour in their SPA. That is all you will need. Okay, octopus gallega at O Mirador. Enjoy!
12. August 2023 - 18:57
I had a lovely stay here. Room was spacious and very modern. Super comfy bed and hot showers, more importantly quiet. Conveniently located in the bars/restaurants hub.
27. May 2023 - 17:41
I splurged for a solo room (70 euro) and have no hot water. The staff is totally indifferent (“it’s not our fault”). No apology, no “have a free glass of wine while we call somebody.”
22. May 2023 - 19:30
When leaving Portomarin, after the bridge you can turn right for the shorter but steeper climb to the top or left for the easier but longer climb which will take you past the church of San Roque.
22. May 2023 - 19:26
Pilgrim’s Mass Monday-Saturday at 8:00 pm.
Mass on Sunday at 12:30 pm, no Pilgrim’s Mass.
10. November 2022 - 17:00
Since I don’t speak Spanish, a friend kindly helped me arrange a foot massage in Portomarín at Centro de Masajes y Osteopatia Nuria Cid just 5 min walk from the municipal albergue. The massage was great and she taped in my feet and ancles (they were very inflamed). It took 30 min and cost me €30. Best money spent in Portomarin.
Google them and write via WhatsApp if you need to book.
15. October 2022 - 9:40
Don’t go up the steps after the bridge if you’re not going to the town!
8. October 2022 - 22:25
Do not stay here if you want to sleep. Quiet hours START at 11. Party City.
5. May 2022 - 11:14
The earlier post I talked about taking the second route for Segundo route into Portomarin because of the highway. But it is a very steep decline on the secondary route. And you would do better to walk on the highway than to take that steep decline if you have a problem with your knees.
5. May 2022 - 11:08
As you come to a T to go down into Portomarin, you'll be off at the historical route and the Segundo route. Follow the wise pilgrim Segundo round because the original route drops you right onto a highway that you have to walk.
8. April 2022 - 22:27
As suggested here, delicious food from really lovely owner. Nice change from regular pilgrim menus.
16. October 2021 - 20:09
New place as of September 2021. Italian street food. It is called ¡Slurp! and they have salads made to order. Totally outstanding owner from Milan. I miss having a large vegetable selection at restaurants on the Camino. This place fixed that.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.
