Camino Portugués
21.2 km, 165 m up and 170 m down, through 9 places, 3 of which have somewhere to sleep. Where you stop is up to you.
Every place on the path in order, with the distance from Arcade. Most are too small to sleep in — a fountain, a chapel, a bar that may or may not be open — but they are what the day is actually made of.
If you fancy oysters — and you should — Arcade is the place. The Ostras de Arcade have a protected designation and are harvested from the ria just below town. Several bars along the waterfront serve them fresh. The bridg…
After crossing the bridge, take a left turn on the first street. This turn is followed by a series of zigs and zags that take you up and through town at the highest point. The camino takes a welcome break from the road traffic between here and O Pobo.
A hamlet between Pontesampaio and O Pobo. No services.
In O Pobo an alternative route into Pontevedra presents itself on the left side of the road — turn left to follow signs toward the Rio Tomeza. This riverside path is 3.6 km to the Pontevedra albergue (near the bus and tr…
A hamlet on the road between O Pobo and Pontevedra. No services.
A hamlet on the outskirts of Pontevedra. No services.
A hamlet at the edge of Pontevedra. No services. The city begins to make itself felt.
Leave by crossing the Ponte do Burgo and heading straight-ish through the next roundabout, turning left immediately after. Before long you will be alongside the railway, which you will cross just before the church of Alba.TWO WAYS TO PONTECESURES / PADRÓNThere are two routes to Pontecesures/Padrón from Pontevedra, and the split occurs about 3km after crossing the bridge in Pontevedra. The original camino keeps on its inland trajectory and is currently the most popular choice among pilgrims. It is also the shortest.The second option is known as the Variante Espiritual and it turns westward to cross over the Monte Redondo as it heads towards the sea at Vilanova de Arousa. From here you have the option of a 3rd day of walking to Pontecesures or a trip by boat up the Ría to the same place. This variant was created and named by the local tourism sector and although the stories told about its origins are fantastic, they are also just that... stories. Don’t let this clever bit of marketing discourage you though, the route is recognized by the Pilgrim Office as an official variant and you will not have any difficulty obtaining your Compostela regardless of whether you take the boat or not.This recognition, and lots of praise from pilgrims, means that this route is growing in popularity. VIA THE VARIANTE ESPIRITUAL - 44. km on foot + 28 km on foot or ferryThe Variante Espiritual is an alternative route which connects Pontevedra with Pontecesures. It adds 8.2km of walking (and a significant climb to the top of the Monte Redondo) and another 28km by boat (from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures).Getting started is as simple as turning left at the well signposted fork in the road. The way almost immediately begins climbing upwards, though gently at first. It is making its way back to the Ría de Pontevedra, going up and around a small monte before arriving in the waterfront town of Combarro. There is one small hamlet before arriving at Cabaleiro, and it has a bar/shop with a very limited selection, but as it has odd hours it is not included here as being reliable.THE ORIGINAL CAMINO, INLAND VIA CALDAS DE REIS - 36.3 kmThis is the easiest to navigate and shortest of the options. From the split simply carry on straight.
The camino leaves town along the road but quickly picks up a track as it descends through the hamlet of Fragmoreira. It emerges on a roundabout at the divided highway you have crossed over a few times. Keep to the left as you approach Poio.
A hamlet on the descent from Cabaleiro to Poio. No services.
The camino descends from the Monastery and turns right at the bottom of the hill. Mind the traffic here, there are no barriers and not too many arrows. Follow the road to the first crosswalk and turn left to pick up a smaller country road. Here there is one tricky turn. Shortly after crossing the road keep an eye open for a narrow path that turns upward on your left-hand side, it is right before a small B&B called A Marchanta. Follow it upward, then turn right, and then left at the fork onto a small dirt track. This track leads you to the waterfront and a large park which plays host to all manner of celebrations, do not be surprised to find it full of teenagers hungover from a late night of partying or packed full with caravans. The arrows are not bountiful here but keep the water to your left and cross to the far end of the park where a paved road takes you uphill to join the main road. This road is very busy and parked cars make for plenty of blind spots. Keep to the left as best you can and soon you will arrive at Combarro.
The path splits here and rejoins before Poio. Both ways are below, because the question is which to take, and that is not a question two separate pages can answer.
Exercise caution passing through San Caetano as the road is quite narrow and the traffic is quite fierce. At the end of town turn right off the road. Soon you will be along the railway once more which you will follow along for several kilometers.
Turn left at the fork in the road, past the park, and onto a country lane. The turn off for the Portela/Barro albergue is along this stretch, and it takes you uphill to the right.
Before arriving at Briallos, the camino approaches the N550 once more. At this point, there are signs for the Natural Park of the Rio Barosa, and the waterfalls. The waterfalls are 500m down the road directly opposite this point and are a worthwhile detour. Picnic areas and a bar and bathroom are at the base of the falls.
On the way out of town, it is once more along the N550 (which frankly will be the case frequently between here and Santiago). Leave it to your right at the first bend in the road.
The camino leaves town along the road but quickly picks up a track as it descends through the hamlet of Fragmoreira. It emerges on a roundabout at the divided highway you have crossed over a few times. Keep to the left as you approach Poio.
The camino descends from the Monastery and turns right at the bottom of the hill. Mind the traffic here, there are no barriers and not too many arrows. Follow the road to the first crosswalk and turn left to pick up a smaller country road. Here there is one tricky turn. Shortly after crossing the road keep an eye open for a narrow path that turns upward on your left-hand side, it is right before a small B&B called A Marchanta. Follow it upward, then turn right, and then left at the fork onto a small dirt track. This track leads you to the waterfront and a large park which plays host to all manner of celebrations, do not be surprised to find it full of teenagers hungover from a late night of partying or packed full with caravans. The arrows are not bountiful here but keep the water to your left and cross to the far end of the park where a paved road takes you uphill to join the main road. This road is very busy and parked cars make for plenty of blind spots. Keep to the left as best you can and soon you will arrive at Combarro.
The Variante Espiritual crosses the road and immediately begins its ascent of the Monte Redondo. The climb varies in intensity from extremely steep to gently rolling and back again. Go gently.
From the mirador the camino levels out a bit and follows along a mountain track. It eventually joins a paved road but only for 250m when it crosses the road and begins the descent into Armenteira.
From Armenteira the camino joins a popular (among locals) trail known as the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua. It follows along a creek, with trails on both sides, as it descends to sea level. Along the way, it passes several dozen abandoned water mills. Note that although you can safely and easily follow both sides of the river, it is the right-hand side that keeps you closer to the mills and the water.
The riverside walk is interrupted by a large highway and associated roundabouts, but no sooner than you pass them do you return to the trail.
As you approach Puente Arnelas you need to follow the arrows that lead you up a steel and wood walkway under the belly of the bridge. At the top, turn right to get up to the road level and follow it into the small village. A short ways on the camino joins the broad Río Umia.
The camino ahead includes a small climb up through the town of Gombra. It also follows the road for a short stretch before turning left into the small village of Mouzas. There are a few more hamlets along this stretch before the camino arrives at a large crossing of the PO-549. Here there is a pair of bars, including the happy for hamburgers Mississippi Bar. Cross the road towards Cores.
Just beyond Cores the camino arrives at last to the sea, and the last 3km are along sandy paths with beaches on your left and beach bars on your right. The camino keeps close to the water and arrives at Vilanova by way of a large bridge.
THE BOAT. Everything you need to know about the boat to Pontecesures is impossible to print here. The schedule varies with the tide, the number of passengers, and the whims of the captain and the hospitalero at the albergue (he who makes the arrangements). The matter is complicated by the fact that the same captain helms two boats of different sizes and capabilities and there is a daily calculation to maximize profit. Unfortunately, this means that there is little that you can do to plan it days in advance, and more or less need to turn up at the albergue and arrange things with the hospitalero.THE ROAD. The alternative to the boat is a predominantly roadside walk along a path that roughly mirrors the coastline but doesn’t provide for much contact with it. The arrows are lacking in certain areas and the accommodation along this stretch should only be relied upon during peak Summer months and with a reservation.
Distances are the sum of the town-to-town measurements in my data, not a straight line on a map. Climb and descent come from the altitude of each place listed above, so they under-read where the path goes over a hill between two of them.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.