Camino Francés
29 km, 542 m up and 467 m down, through 19 places, 10 of which have somewhere to sleep. Where you stop is up to you.
Every place on the path in order, with the distance from Portomarín. Most are too small to sleep in — a fountain, a chapel, a bar that may or may not be open — but they are what the day is actually made of.
From the square simply head downhill along the colonnaded street and stick to it until you arrive at the main road. DO NOT keep going straight. Rather turn left and head back in the direction of the bridge into town. Before you get there arrows will direct you onto a different bridge over a small river that feeds the reservoir.
At the end of the bridge are two options: TURN RIGHT.
From here it is a steadily uphill march all the way to Gonzar, passing Toxibo with its hórreo along the way. After passing through a stretch of forest the camino returns to the main road and parallels it on a gravel track. This track crosses back and forth over the main road on several occasions. Be mindful of traffic here, particularly during the morning hours when the area can be thick with fog.
Be aware of high-speed traffic as you are required to cross back and forth across the main road.
The climb out of Portomarín is steep. Toxibo is one of the first hamlets above the reservoir, with views back over the water. A seasonal bar may be open. From here the terrain is rolling Galician hills.
The camino leaves along the road but departs from it quite quickly. You will find that it does this often; the arrows have been placed in a manner which keeps you as far from heavy traffic as possible.
Shortly beyond the village, a mere 50m off the camino to your left, are the remains of the Iron Age castro that gives the town its name. It is seldom visited (there are no signs) but is worth an exploration. It can be found before the point where you meet the main road.
When leaving Hospital de la Cruz it is important to pay close attention to the traffic. The camino crosses a large roundabout, goes over the highway, and then turns left. At this point, you are actually walking along the highway on-ramp, though only for a short distance. It turns right and continues the upward march towards Ventas de Narón.
Ventas de Narón is a small village with a couple of bars and a monument to a battle between Charlemagne's forces and the Moors — though the historical accuracy of Charlemagne ever reaching this far into Galicia is doubtf…
The Alto de Ligonde is a modest summit on the route between Portomarín and Palas de Rei. A cruceiro (stone cross) marks the top. The views across the rolling Galician landscape are pleasant. No services.
A tiny hamlet after the Alto de Ligonde. No services.
A hamlet on the descent from Ligonde. No services.
Ligonde has a small albergue and may have a bar operating. A medieval cemetery next to the church is a reminder of the village's historical connection to the pilgrim route.
A small hamlet with a bar and an albergue. The Iglesia de Santiago has a simple Romanesque form.
A hamlet with a bar between Eirexe and the detour to Vilar de Donas.
You will pass through Os Valos and Mamurria, no services.
A hamlet on the approach to Palas de Rei. No services.
A hamlet near Palas de Rei. No services.
From here the camino passes through more forests and nears the road at Rosario.
Along the descent from here you will pass Os Chacotes, a recreational area with a log-cabin style hotel and sports facilities. At the entrance to Palas de Rei is the Iglesia de San Tirso, where a stamp is available. From there it is down a set of stairs into town.
You have now entered eucalyptus territory, and although there are patches of old oak forests to be found this non-indigenous species has taken over the landscape and has become a symbol of Galicia.
You've entered eucalyptus territory. Although patches of native oak forest survive, this non-indigenous species has taken over the Galician landscape. Love it or hate it (the locals are divided), the tall, fragrant trees…
Near San Xulain the camino is undergoing a rerouting to accommodate the new highway connecting Santiago with Lugo. Most recently this meant walking across the unfinished highway. Changes are frequent and it is best to follow the detour signage.
The bar here opens at 7:30.
A medieval bridge over the Río Pambre. The bridge is well-preserved and the setting, in a wooded valley, is pleasant. No services.
Distance, climb and descent are measured along the GPS track for this camino — 533 recorded points across this span, the same track the app carries. The town-to-town figures in my data put it at 29 km.
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.