Ponferrada is the capital of the Bierzo and the largest city between León and Santiago. The Castillo de los Templarios — one of the largest and best-preserved Templar castles in Europe — dominates the old quarter from its hilltop position above the Río Sil.
The castle is enormous: multiple towers, a double curtain wall, and an interior that gives a genuine sense of Templar power and ambition. It was built in the 12th century, expanded in the 13th, and largely abandoned after the Templar dissolution in 1312. Admission is charged and the visit takes at least an hour. The Templar library inside has excellent exhibitions on the order's history.
The old quarter below the castle has narrow streets, the Basílica de la Encina (patron of the Bierzo, with a Romanesque-Gothic interior), and a pleasant river walk along the Sil. The Museo del Bierzo in the old prison provides regional context.
The modern city sprawls around the old core. Full services: hospital, pharmacies, outdoor shops, supermarkets, bus and train station. Multiple albergues and hotels. The restaurant scene is improving — look for Bierzo dishes: botillo (a smoked meat stew), pimientos del Bierzo, and empanada.
The Fiesta de la Encina in early September honors the patron. The Noche Templaria (Templar Night) in July transforms the old quarter into a medieval spectacle with fire, music, and costumes.
The name Ponferrada comes from pons ferrata — the iron bridge that a 12th-century bishop built to help pilgrims cross the Sil. The Templars received the town in 1178 from Ferdinand II of León to protect the pilgrim route, and the castle was their base of operations. After their dissolution, the castle passed to various noble families before falling into ruin. Major restoration began in the late 20th century.
Leaving Ponferrada, the camino navigates the western suburbs through Compostilla, Columbrianos, and Fuentes Nuevas before reaching open country. The urban exit is long but well-marked. The Bierzo valley, with its vineyards and orchards, stretches ahead.
15. June 2026 - 19:55
Insane kitsch masterpiece from 1967, modeled after a Templar castle. Similar price to local pensiones, but a four-star rating. Tremendous amount of preserved detail, comfortable bed, renovated bathroom. Oh yes, and next to Decathlon.
30. May 2026 - 14:07
Be aware that the Templar Fortress has a lot of stairs. Totally worth it, but it's not going to be a rest day if you visit the fortress.
27. May 2026 - 16:05
Really cute bar tucked away in a picturesque alleyway. We spent over 2 hours here just relaxing on a day off
27. May 2026 - 16:03
If you have time stop over and do a tour of the castle, even if only for the views. The views are spectacular and you can see the rolling mountains for dayssss on a clear day. Especially nice in the evening ~7pm
25. April 2026 - 13:39
Best felafel I’ve had in many years. Highly recommend!
22. March 2026 - 12:32
Slightly out of the way bit man it's the perfect pilgrim food for a lunch. I had their gyro wrap and it is 🔥
12. September 2025 - 21:14
I enjoyed a traditional Indian meal at Royal Tandori a block off the Camino in Panferrada a Pilgrim can only eat so much jamon and eggs. Best Samosas and Chicken Tiki Masala.
19. July 2025 - 6:00
Pandora Thai. Wow. Deee-lish.
1. June 2025 - 22:19
Passing through Ponferrada, I came across Gisela Pastelaria—and it was a highlight. The coffee and croissant were the best I’ve had in Spain, and the service was warm and welcoming. A perfect stop to recharge—highly recommended!
It’s opposite the fortress.
Av. el Castillo, 131
21. May 2025 - 10:10
Had an incredible time visiting the winery. Can garriré walking or by bus. Met with Milagros and had a tour, tasting 4 wines with food, $40. Worth it!! You can book online or email them. They’ll also do a pilgrim deal for 2 wines and a tour — $25. Loved my time, Milagros is great.
19. May 2025 - 21:13
The Castillo is closed Mondays, and open 10-2pm or 430-830pm. Free on Wednesdays for everyone and $4 for pilgrims other days. The Albergue Alea with owner Amelia is a precious place to stay. They treat you like true family. Amazing. Delicious dinner. Lovely people. They allow pets, rest days if they have space, and are such good hosts that it’s like being with your grandparents. A 10 min walk from city center but really worth it.
12. May 2025 - 11:32
In Ponferrada if you want to shake it up and have some spice, try PANDORA THAI RESTAURANT!! I had the green curry there yesterday, and it was fabulous!! Nice atmosphere with very friendly staff!!
12. October 2024 - 11:07
On the way into Ponferrada you’ll pass this spot. Unfortunately it wasn’t open when I went by bc of a public holiday, but it looked pretty shmick and modern.
11. October 2024 - 5:04
Everything was closed due to “vacation” while we were here. We ended up at Domino’s Pizza for dinner and were truly grateful!
7. September 2024 - 9:21
I had the best pilgrim menu since the whole Camino Frances started at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The restaurant owns two passionate and lovely pilgrims from Tirol and they really know what pilgrims need. All fresh ingredients, freshly cooked food and a good wide enough selection, also a good vegetarian menu. And just for 14,90 for the menu. And they're open for a good talk in Spanish :)
31. August 2024 - 16:01
There is a wonderful festival going on in the city through September 7
27. August 2024 - 14:21
I researched several of Ponferrada's best bars when I was updating the 2024 Lonely Planet Spain guidebook... and others too when I was making the trek that featured in my latest book - 'Vagabond: A Hiker's Homage to Rural Spain'.
La Bodega de Godivah (on the road facing the castle) is perhaps the best place to grab a beer and a snack and enjoy some pleasant people-watching.
On another note, there is a huge Decathlon just a kilometre from here that is fantastic if you need equipment for the mountains. After my 1,225km hike from Gibraltar I was in dire need of new hiking socks...and thermal underwear for potentially sleeping-rough in the mountains.
Mark Eveleigh (UK)
20. July 2024 - 14:36
The gal that runs this shop is so kind and helpful, highly recommend stopping there for replacement clothes or equipment
6. June 2024 - 15:55
It only adds time, no nice views.
16. May 2024 - 18:39
What I liked: helpful layout. The hallways on each floor are wide, with lots of room to don or doff shoes. The first section of the room includes shower, toilet, sink, and lockers with included combination locks. Then there’s a sliding door separating this area from the bunks. Makes it easy to come and go without disturbing all the other sleeping people in the room.
What I found a bit odd is the way they assign people to rooms. How does an old lady end up in a room full of men?
Esta entidad ha sido beneficiaria de una ayuda del Programa de incentivos a la movilidad eficiente y sostenible (MOVES III), gestionado por la Xunta de Galicia a través del Instituto Enerxético de Galicia (INEGA) en el marco del Real Decreto 266/2021, y cofinanciada por la Unión Europea — NextGenerationEU, dentro del Plan de Recuperación, Transformación y Resiliencia.
